Caulking — Flexible sealant for filling gaps around trim, windows, or baseboards; prevents drafts/moisture entry and gives clean lines.

Masking — Using tape, paper, or plastic to protect floors, trim, windows, or fixtures from paint splatter.

Spot Priming — Applying primer only to patched, repaired, or stained spots before full painting.

Substrate — The surface you're painting (drywall, wood, plaster, metal, etc.).

Back Rolling — Rolling over sprayed paint to even it out, remove bubbles, and ensure proper thickness/texture (common with sprayers).

Cutting In — Painting clean edges, corners, and around fixtures with a brush before rolling the main area.

Sheen: The level of shine or gloss in paint, ranging from flat (no shine) to high-gloss (very reflective).

Airless: A tool that sprays paint evenly for a smooth finish; faster for large areas but requires masking and practice to avoid drips.

Touch-Up: Small repairs to fix dings, scratches, or missed spots using leftover paint.

VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds): Chemicals in paint that can release fumes; low-VOC or zero-VOC paints are healthier and less smelly.

Color Matching: Using a machine or expert eye to mix paint that exactly matches an existing color, ideal for touch-ups.

Dry Times — Tack-free/touch-dry (no longer sticky to touch); recoat time (safe for second coat); full cure (hardest/most durable, often 7-30 days).

Alligatoring/Crocodiling — Wide, cracking paint resembling alligator skin; usually from poor prep, incompatible layers (oil over latex), or thick application.

Blistering — Bubbles or blisters under paint; often from moisture trapped behind the paint and the surface.

Flashing — Uneven sheen or shiny patches; caused by inconsistent application or absorption on the surface.

Lap Marks — Visible lines where one brush/roller stroke overlaps another; prevented by keeping a "wet edge" and proper technique.

Orange Peel — Bumpy texture like orange skin; common with spraying (wrong pressure/viscosity) or thick rolling.

Peeling — Paint lifting or flaking off; main causes are poor adhesion, moisture, or inadequate prep.

Adhesion — How well paint bonds/sticks to the surface; depends on proper prep, primer, and conditions.

Mils — The dry film thickness of paint is measured in millimeters or mils. As a professional, we aim for 4-6 mils which usually involves two coats of paint. The allows for total for durability.

Undertone — Subtle hue beneath the main color (e.g., blue undertone in a gray); affects how it looks in your lighting/furnishings.

Acrylic Paint: A water-based paint that's easy to clean up with soap and water. It's flexible, resists cracking, and is great for most indoor and outdoor surfaces.

Oil-Based Paint: Paint made with mineral spirits; it's durable and smooth but takes longer to dry, has strong fumes, and needs solvent cleanup.

Primer: A base layer that seals the surface, improves paint adhesion, and hides old colors or stains for a professional finish.